Pulchritude and provenance aside, it’s De Vilmorin’s irrepressible designs that impress. His fall collection is a genderless assortment of colorful quilted jackets patchworked with faces, flowers, and hearts, and leggings hand-painted in the phantasmagorical Art Nouveau style of his sketches, which owe a debt both to Tim Burton and Robert Williams, the artist behind Guns N’ Roses’s Appetite for Destruction album cover. “I love drawing my looks, I love all the work about fabrics: patchwork, painting, dyeing,” he says. “I love making embroideries and mixing a lot of different techniques. But I think my favorite part is to create with my imagination the garment, starting from scratch and seeing how fabric becomes a piece of clothing.”
Like most fashion school grads circa 2020, De Vilmorin is sustainably minded and system agnostic. He intends to set up his business as a made-to-order rather than mass-produced operation, and he feels no pressure to present collections on the traditional February and September schedule. But unlike most designers his age, his point of view is well-honed, both identifiable and outsized, which is an irony considering the one-room flat in which he makes his clothes is too small even for a desk, so the sewing machine is set up on the floor. His quilted jackets in particular are fabulously editorial but also quite simple to wear. With a price tag under €1,000—aspirational but not anywhere near as expensive as the brands that line Avenue Montaigne—they’re fashion trophies for his young friends. And De Vilmorin himself? He has all the makings of Gen Z’s first fashion star.
The collection is available for sale on Charles de Vilmorin’s website.