Poetic And Subverse, Get To Know The Collections Of Fashion Designer, Nensi Dojaka – Forbes

It’s almost as if Nensi Dojaka could have been part of fashion’s illustrious Antwerp Six with her aesthetic that you could describe in one word as: deconstructed. However, that was all before her time, she’s new wave avant-garde.

Nensi Dojaka Catwalk - London Fashion Week February 2020

Models on the catwalk during the Nensi Dojaka Autumn/Winter show at London Fashion Week February … [+] 2020 at the Fashion East Catwalk, Brick Lane. (Photo by Aaron Chown/PA Images via Getty Images)

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A recent graduate of Central Saint Martins, this Albanian designer founded her eponymous brand while completing her BA at the London College of Fashion just three years ago. A bold move by Nensi, but with luxury retailer Ssense on board as a stockist, why the heck not.

And when it comes to her look there’s a reassuring familiarity with the deconstruction element (it conjures up memories of ‘90s Helmut, Demeulemeester through to early noughties with a hint of McQueen) but it also feels very ‘now’ as she takes inspirations from today’s reality.

Fashion East - Runway - LFW February 2020

LONDON, ENGLAND – FEBRUARY 15: Nensi Dojaka walks the runway at the Nensi Dojaka show during the … [+] Fashion East show at London Fashion Week February 2020 on February 15, 2020 in London, England. (Photo by Stuart Wilson/BFC/Getty Images)

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With contrasts at play, her collection is confident, but there’s then a vulnerability, a fragility versus severity. There’s layers of different fabric too, which gives depth and is set against completely sheer material and bare skin for utter rawness.

Nensi talks about this new way of dressing and the contrast between the poetic and the subverse.

Fashion East - Runway - LFW February 2020

LONDON, ENGLAND – FEBRUARY 15: A model walks the runway at the Nensi Dojaka show during the Fashion … [+] East show at London Fashion Week February 2020 on February 15, 2020 in London, England. (Photo by Stuart Wilson/BFC/Getty Images)

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Felicity Carter: What is your first memory of fashion?

Nensi Dojaka: A Miu Miu dress I got as a present for my birthday when I was 16. It was so light and delicate and it felt precious.

FC: You studied at Central Saint Martins – tell us why that school appealed to you?

ND: I love the fact that the teaching revolves around your identity as a designer and getting to the root of that. It is very important and it brings out what is unique about your approach.

Fashion East - Runway - LFW February 2020

LONDON, ENGLAND – FEBRUARY 15: A model walks the runway at the Nensi Dojaka show during the Fashion … [+] East show during London Fashion Week February 2020 on February 15, 2020 in London, England. (Photo by Stuart Wilson/BFC/Getty Images)

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FC: It was a confident move to set up your label while studying for your BA – what do you put that down to?

ND: I started working on the idea of a brand at the end of my BA, but then developed it during my MA course at Central Saint Martins. At first, it was a decision made purely out of the passion I had for what I was doing. Then, after I started selling a few pieces on Ssense from my MA collection, it only felt natural to progress into what I had already started.

FC: Which designers, have had an impact on your thinking?

ND: I admire so many designers’ work; especially designers like Helmut, Ann Demeulemeester, Alessandro Dell’acqua. I love how there was an element of poetry verses that hint of subversity. That’s really inspiring to me.

Fashion East - Runway - LFW February 2020

LONDON, ENGLAND – FEBRUARY 15: A model walks the runway at the Nensi Dojaka show during the Fashion … [+] East show during London Fashion Week February 2020 on February 15, 2020 in London, England. (Photo by Stuart Wilson/BFC/Getty Images)

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FC: Your line has a feel of the ’90s but is also very now, how would you sum up the aesthetic?

ND: I have researched so much into ’90s magazines because I love the clothes, the aesthetic, and even the way pictures were shot at the time. There’s something raw and soulful that I really wish to bring back. So, I do reference the ’90s a lot in details, etc. But then it’s all mixed up with my drapes and personal taste which is also influenced by what we see now, the society, the reality of now.

There’s that mixture of severity and duality which I play a lot with, and it’s definitely how I would sum up the aesthetic.

FC: Who is your customer?

ND: A confident woman that is not afraid to look different and to break that preconception of a pretty ‘dress’.

Fashion East - Runway - LFW February 2020

LONDON, ENGLAND – FEBRUARY 15: A model walks the runway at the Nensi Dojaka show during the Fashion … [+] East show at London Fashion Week February 2020 on February 15, 2020 in London, England. (Photo by Stuart Wilson/BFC/Getty Images)

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FC: What are the cornerstones of your company?

ND: Good quality materials, an honest product, and proposing a slightly different way to dress/putting clothes together.

FC: Which was the first-ever piece that you designed and how did it come about?

ND: The first thing I designed, that I was proud of was a mini dress made of triple layers of fine jersey and organza in brown and black. I loved the effect of those see-through layers, creating new shapes just by overlapping.

Fashion East - Runway - LFW February 2020

LONDON, ENGLAND – FEBRUARY 15: A model walks the runway at the Nensi Dojaka show during the Fashion … [+] East show during London Fashion Week February 2020 on February 15, 2020 in London, England. (Photo by Stuart Wilson/BFC/Getty Images)

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FC: Tell us about the production process and materiality…

ND: In terms of creating the collection, I always start by draping on the mannequin which we then develop with every toile while doing a lot of fittings. Usually, as a lot of the pieces are draped and asymmetric, they are complicated to simplify into a commercial product and we put a lot of work into that now.

I love mixing fabrics like stretch georgette, with super fine jersey and now with some tailoring fabrics too. Again, it is all about that contrast and to give the garment that multi-dimensionality.

Fashion East - Runway - LFW February 2020

LONDON, ENGLAND – FEBRUARY 15: A model walks the runway at the Nensi Dojaka show during the Fashion … [+] East show at London Fashion Week February 2020 on February 15, 2020 in London, England. (Photo by Stuart Wilson/BFC/Getty Images)

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FC: What are the long term goals for your company?

ND: I will definitely continue developing and consolidating the aesthetic and the quality of the products, and perhaps expand into footwear a bit too.

FC: Where can we buy?

ND: At the moment, stocked at Ssense, H Lorenzo, Opening Ceremony, Macondo in Italy.

Fashion East - Runway - LFW February 2020

LONDON, ENGLAND – FEBRUARY 15: A model walks the runway at the Nensi Dojaka show during the Fashion … [+] East show at London Fashion Week February 2020 on February 15, 2020 in London, England. (Photo by Stuart Wilson/BFC/Getty Images)

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